Chardonnay
In this article, we'll delve into the fascinating grape of Chardonnay, exploring its reputation and global rise, historical roots in Burgundy, elusive nature, cultivation and production techniques, and diverse expressions in Burgundy’s appellation.
The Versatility of Chardonnay: A Guide to one of the World's Most cultivated Grape Variety
Chardonnay is one of the most versatile grape varieties in the world. This grape can produce many types of wine, from sparkling wine capable of aging for centuries, to dry and mineral wine, and fuller-bodied versions from world-class appellations. With the potential to capture the essence of the terroir and the winemaker's vinification expertise, its flavour profile is uniquely characterized by acidity and offers a wide range of complexity and flavour profiles. On top of this, this grape offers fewer challenges during viticulture, which is why it is widely planted. In 2023, Chardonnay was the most planted white grape in France in hectares, and the reputation of this grape extends beyond borders, as it is one of the most used grapes in the United States too.
The Birthplace of Chardonnay: A Rich History in Burgundy
Chardonnay, one of the most popular white grape varieties, has a rich history. It is believed to be the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, a lesser-known white variety that is now almost extinct. Chardonnay's versatility and adaptability have made it a favourite among winemakers, with its ability to thrive in a wide range of climates and soils.
The first recorded mention of Chardonnay was in the 13th century, in the records of the Cistercian monks of the Abbey of Saint-Vivant de Vergy. The monks were known for their viticulture and winemaking skills, and they cultivated Chardonnay in their vineyards in the Côte d'Or. The grape variety was named after the village of Chardonnay, located in the Maconnais region of Burgundy.
The Art of Cultivating Chardonnay: Clones and Viticulture Techniques
There are around 30 official French clones of Chardonnay, but some are more widely used, such as clones 77 and 809, which are known for their perfume and capability to produce both still and sparkling wine. They can contribute a distinct aromatic character to blends. Moreover, clonal selection in Burgundy is widely used when producers want to preserve the identity of the grapes and the capability to express the terroir where they are planted.
This is a versatile grape variety that thrives in diverse climates, but it can be challenging to grow. This grape is early budding which makes it vulnerable to spring frosts, while its early ripening suits it to cooler regions. Although it can produce high yields without compromising quality, Chardonnay is susceptible to various diseases, including grey rot, powdery mildew, millerandage, and grapevine yellows. Typically grown on limestone and clay soils, Chardonnay imparts a unique minerality to the wine. In the vineyard, growers use techniques such as pruning, canopy management, and crop thinning to optimize yields and fruit quality. Pruning is essential to control the vigour of the vines and to ensure even bud break. Canopy management, such as leaf removal and shoot positioning, helps to regulate the temperature and humidity of the grape clusters, reducing the risk of disease. Crop thinning, or green harvesting, is used to reduce the yield and improve the concentration of the fruit when necessary.
Yields are restricted according to the appellation, with regional appellations limited to 75 hL/ha, village-level wines and Premier Cru restricted to 45-68 hL/ha, and Grands crus limited to as low as 35-37 hL/ha. Organic and biodynamic practices are gaining popularity, but the region's challenging climate and shared vineyards can make implementation difficult; however, some winemakers follow these practices and make some of the finest wines from the region, such as Domaine les Astrelles, and Domaine Camille Thiriet.
Crafting Chardonnay: Viticulture and Winemaking Techniques
In the winery, Chardonnay is often whole-bunch-pressed to extract the juice and then fermented using indigenous yeasts or cultured yeast in temperature temperature-controlled stainless steel tank.
The choice of yeast can have a significant impact on the flavour and aroma of the wine. Indigenous yeasts, which are naturally present on the skin of the grapes, can produce a range of flavours and aromas, which are distinctive of the terroir where the grape is planted. The fermentation might not be as straightforward as with cultured yeast but winemakers usually make a “pied de cuve” to optimise the alcoholic fermentation.
Cultured yeasts, on the other hand, are selected for their specific characteristics, such as their ability to produce certain flavours or to ferment at specific temperatures.
Then, the wine may undergo malolactic conversion, a secondary fermentation that converts malic acid to lactic acid, softening the acidity of the wine. Malolactic conversion is often used and takes place in oak barrels, to add richness, micro-oxygenation and complexity to the wine.
Ageing in oak barrels can add complexity and flavour as well as structure and body to the wine. The length of ageing and the type of oak can vary, depending on the style of winemakers.
Post-fermentation maceration periods vary depending on fruit ripeness and wine style, and the wine is pressed off and racked into oak barrels for maturation, with ageing periods ranging from 12-20 months for premium wines. The proportion of new oak varies widely across the region and producer style and malolactic conversion typically occurs spontaneously in the spring following harvest.
Different Expressions of Chardonnay
Chablis & Côte de Nuits
Within each of these regions, there is a range of village appellations that produce Chardonnay with unique flavour profiles.
Here are some of the most notable:
Starting north, Chablis's terroir is characterized by the unique Kimmeridgian soil, composed of microscopic sea fossil sediment named Exogyra Virgula. The wines produced are lean, and mineral, and the appellation is home to 7 Grands Crus, such as Vaudésir, Les Clos, Bouchots, Bourgros, and 41 Premiers Crus, such as Montée de Tonnerre, Montmains, or even Fourchaume. The wines from this area stand out thanks to their striking minerality and ageing potential.
In Côte de Nuits, Pinot Noir is the key grape produced; however, appellations such as Fixin, Marsannay, and Nuits-Saint-Georges are producing very interesting expressions of this grape. AOC Bourgogne and Coteaux Bourguignon offer a wide range, combining complexity and delicate aromas. Les Closeaux from Domaine les Astrelles is the perfect example to illustrate how Chardonnay can be sublimated.
In the hill of Corton, Corton Grand Cru, one of the largest Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy, features soils composed of limestone and clay, with a high proportion of marl. The wines produced have richness, complexity, and ageing potential, with flavours that often include white fruit, honey, vanilla, and a hint of spice. Domaine les Astrelles is producing a singular expression with the cuvée Les Grandes Lolières.
Côte de Beaune
Côte de Beaune is the area where Chardonnay is thriving the best, the appellations below are some of the best examples where the grapes express an indisputable level of authenticity and quality.
Meursault does not have any Grands Crus, but it has Premiers Crus of an outstanding level of complexity, such as Goutte d'Or, Bouches-Chères, Perrières, Charmes, and Cras, which are grown on soils composed of limestone, clay, and marl. The wines of Meursault are known for their opulence, complexity, and ageing potential; winemakers like Domaine Buisson Charles are focusing on making a pure and lean expression of Meursault.
Puligny-Montrachet produces some of the most elegant, mineral-driven Chardonnays from Burgundy, which are grown on soils composed of limestone, clay, and marl. The wines of Puligny-Montrachet are known for their precision, acidity, and ageing potential, with flavours that often include citrus, green apple, stone fruit, and a hint of minerality. The appellation has Premiers Crus such as Le Cailleret, Les Combettes, Clavoillon, Les Referts and Grands Crus such as Le Montrachet, Chevalier Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet.
Chassagne-Montrachet is situated between the regions of Saône-et-Loire and Côte-d'Or, this appellation has undergone a significant transformation, with Pinot Noir initially dominating the vineyards, only to be surpassed by a massive increase in Chardonnay plantings, a trend exemplified by the period between 2003 and 2007. This village shares some of its most prestigious Grands Crus with Puligny-Montrachet, including Le Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet, and is also renowned for producing world-class Premiers Crus, such as Boudriotte, Caillerets, Les Champs Gain, Morgeot, En Remilly, Les Vergers, and Virondot.
Côte Chalonnaise & Le Mâconnais
Villages such as Givry, Montagny, Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise and Macon, Pouilly-Fuissé, and St-Veran also offer a wide range of wines with complexity, ageing potential, and a balance of richness and acidity.
